The compressor wiring ended up being extremely simple. You have to short two wires together and solder the new connector to the third. See the diagram below…
Also, be aware that the compressor has a pressure switch inside. It will not turn on if your A/C system is not charged.
There are two routes to installing AVCS…
1. Buy (or make) two wiring harnesses. The left hand side of car is for the AVCS solenoids & the right hand side is for the AVCS sensors.
2. Make a harness for only the right hand side and reuse the wiring from the USDM TGV system for the left hand side.
Note: for the right hand side (the sensors) you must use individually shielded wire!
I went with option 1 because it is SIGNIFICANTLY easier. Pulling pins out of the harness is a royal pain. I wanted to save some time, so I purchased a pre-made wiring harness from IA Performance. With this kit, the install took me under 30 minutes to complete.
Addendum: The connectors of interest are the middle one on the ECU (smallest connector), the black bulkhead connector next to the battery, and the grey bulkhead connector next to the boost control solenoid.
With the motor now installed and the car back in Chicago, I have a few posts to catch up on. This one will cover disabling AVCS codes that appear from plugging in the JDM motor wiring harness to the USDM connectors without the additional wiring required for AVCS. The reason I did this is so I can temporarily drive the car without CELs. Here is everything required:
– Tactrix cable ($150 for v1.3) & flash block
– RomRaider (free)
– ECUflash (free)
– Windows Laptop
The codes to disable are:
P1306, P1308, P0390, P0365
Follow these tutorials to disable them:
So my original plan of getting a JDM twin scoll flange welded to a USDM downpipe will not work. The opening at the end of the pipe requires too much massaging for the flange to line up. Thankfully, P&L Motorsports came to … Continue reading
My motor came with one of the purge control solenoid hoses disconnected. It had a white T-fitting (aftermarket) inserted and was hanging loose. For reference, I will post the differences between the USDM and JDM purge control systems.
As you can see, the JDM setup is much simpler. According to IA Performance, you can delete the purge valve on a USDM and convert it to JDM with no Ill effects. The hoses on the purge valve are known to come off occasionally, so this might be a solution for those running USDM setups.
Like other people that have purchased JDM motors, my timing belt covers were cracked in a few places. It’s a long trip from Japan and you can expect these kinds of things to happen. Seal up any cracks well – you don’t want to risk something getting in and shredding the belt. I purchased a set of used covers from a NASIOC member, but JB Weld would have probably worked just fine. I also went ahead and painted the covers with Krylon Fusion (plastic bond) satin black paint. The covers cost about $100 new from Subaru, whereas I paid much less for the used ones and paint.
I added part numbers for the JDM covers to the compendium for reference.
The motor cleaned up pretty well and I proceeded to install the Gates timing belt kit following Meaty’s Youtube series. Interestingly, I found the Gates Racing belt to be much tighter than the standard Gates belt I installed on my … Continue reading